International Mountain Guide’s meeting in Boulder. CO November 12-16, 2010

I (Marty Molitoris) just returned from the UIAGM/AMGA annual meeting in Boulder, CO. This year was the first time the AMGA held the meeting for the IFMGA. Delegates from around the world attended making it a truly special event.
During the meeting, the president of the IFMGA, along with the president of the AMGA, the AMGA executive director and access director met with various land managers from the National Park Service, U.S. Forest Service and others to dicuss the options for increased access for certified guides and IFMGA visiting guides. It was a great learning process for all who attended and hopefully it will bring more access in the future.

The week was also declared Mountain Guides Week by the Mayor of Boulder and she gave a wonder speech after the first mountain guide parade which happened up and down Pearl Street.

Photos to come soon…

Happy Birthday Cam!

Alpine Endeavors Guide Cam Pavone turned 47 on November 9th. Each year Cam climbs as many pitches as he is old (in years). Two days ago Cam lead all 47 pitches himself and had a support crew along in the Trapps to help him out. His day began at about midnight on the 9th and he climbed continuously until about dark the following night.

I caught up with him at about pitch 27, on top of the climb Baby just outside of the Uberfall. He was going strong and still in high spirits after nearly 12 hours on the go. Here are some pictures from his big day.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Gunks SPI Assessment October 25-26

Working with AMGA Single Pitch Instructor candidates is always a rewarding experience. During a recent assessment I was able to work with 4 really experienced climbers from very diverse backgrounds. Two have extensive personal climbing experience while the other two have large amounts of instructional climbing experience. Over two days we had a good time, climbed a lot and enjoyed a quiet day by ourselves in the amphitheater at Lost City and another at Peterskill. If you’re interested in taking an American Mountain Guides Association SPI course give us a call. We have 4 course providers on staff and can set one up any time you’d like in most locations around the northeast and midatlantic.

Here are some fun images from the program 2 weeks ago.

Kaaterskill Falls Tyrolean Traverse and Rappelling

For a few years now Alpine Endeavors has offered full day group rappel sessions at Kaaterskill Falls in the Catskills. We generally set up a long (190 ft.) tryolean traverse and two 180′ long free-hanging rappels. Two weeks ago during one of those days I shot this video and have edited it down a bit. If you’re interested in setting something like this up let us know. Enjoy!

 

Seneca Rocks!

Thais, pretty steep for "5.6"

Alpine Endeavors hasn’t taken a trip to Seneca in a long time and a visit to climb the steepest moderates in the east was way overdue. Seneca Rocks is a small climbing area in eastern West Virginia composed of Tuscarora Sandstone (quartzite) similar to the rock in the Gunks. At Seneca, however, the layers are vertical not horizontal, making for spectacular steep climbing. This is the only place in the U.S. where you can climb an entire pitch of vertical 5.6. Your body hangs away from the cliff the whole time making the climbing feel demanding and sustained.

Over three days we climbed several really classic routes including Thais, Green Wall, West Pole, Prune and Ecstasy. A visit to this area is well worth the time; the campground is quiet and clean and the local climbers are really friendly. Below are some of the better images from the trip.

Thais, pretty steep for “5.6″

The exposed South Summit

The “5.7″ crux of Prune

The very beautiful Green Wall

An exposed traverse on pitch 2 of Ecstasy

AMGA SPI Courses and Skills Clinics

Basic Rope Ascension - a foundation for most rescue skills. If you can do this with friction hitches you can do it easily with ascenders

Have you ever wondered what you would do if your climbing partner became injured or stuck on climb? Do you have the skills to initiate a safe rescue and get back to the ground? Here at Alpine Endeavors we’ve been teaching a lot of skills clinics and AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Courses recently. These courses and clinics are a great way to brush up on your skills or learn new skills that will make you a safer, more knowledgeable climber.

Some of the courses we offer on a regular basis are:

• AMGA Single Pitch Instructor (SPI) Course and Assessment
• Crevasse Rescue
• Toprope Anchors
• Rock/Ice Self-Rescue
• Basic Rock Climbing
• Intermediate Rock Climbing
• Learn To Lead
• Aid Climbing

Many of these courses or clinics are offered at a discounted rate ($125-$160/person/day) provided the course has more than one participant.

A top belay using a Grigri

A redirected lower using a Grigri

Assistance: using the Grigri and a friction hitch to raise a stuck climber

A counterbalance descent, one way to descend with a climber who needs assistance

A basic 3:1 raising system with a Tibloc as the ratchet

Basic Rope Ascension – a foundation for most rescue skills. If you can do this with friction hitches you can do it easily with ascenders

Catskill Ice: In, Gunks Rock: In!

We’re approaching that time of year when you can rock climb in the morning in the southeast facing Shawangunks, and then drive north to the Catskills and ice climb, all in a day. You could even incorporate some skiing into this if you want. Give us a call if you’re interested in a spring marathon day.

The ice season is still going. We’ve had one of the best ice seasons in a long time in the Catskills. There’s been no reason to go anywhere else. In fact it’s colder here than in most places up north. Go figure. Here are some great pictures of climbing in the Catskills over the past month.

Shawn Crowley on Buttermilk Falls

Craig Risoli nears the top of Plattekill Falls

Plattekill Falls, a very scenic location

A sunny day in Platte Clove

Hayley Zamek on Plattekill Falls

Craig Risoli on Plattekill Falls, Feb 14th

Swinging for the fences, Shawn Crowley near the top of Buttermilk

Shawn Crowley near the top of Buttermilk

The final few moves on the WI 4+ column at Buttermilk

Shawn Crowley on the final pitch of Buttermilk Falls

Shawn Crowley following the final pitch Buttermilk Falls

Catskill Ice Climbing Festival

The 12th annual Catskill Ice Festival is coming up! This year it’s going to be the weekend of February 19th-22nd. In previous years the event was held in January, but the consistently colder temperatures in February seem to be good for reliable ice in a region where mid-winter thaws are common.

This year’s lineup is similar to previous years, with one exception – we’ll have demo tents sent up in Platte Clove! This means that you can come try out new gear in the Devil’s Kitchen, Bridalveil Falls, or the Black Chasm.

There’s been a lot of interest in the clinics this year. It seems that ice climbing has gained popularity and people are interested in learning the necessary skills to get out there on their own. Many of the clinics are almost full. If you’re interested contact us soon.

Schedule of Events

February 19th

• Day – Catskill Ice Tour. This is a big day of climbing, hitting routes at many of the major cliffs in the area.

• Evening – Slide show at Rock & Snow, 8 p.m. – Ice climbing in Newfoundland

February 20th

• Day – Basic Ice Movement – New to ice climbing, never ice climbed before? We will introduce you to the techniques needed to ice climb.
• Day – Steep Ice Techniques – Ice is always steeper than it looks. Learn some handy skills & techniques for climbing vertical pillars, mushrooms and columns

• Evening – Slide show at Rock & Snow, 8 p.m. – Northern Revival – Matt McCormick presents a multi-media look at the next generation of New England climbers pushing the limits year round on ice, rock, and mixed terrain.

February 21st

• Day – Intermediate Ice Movement – for those who have climbed some ice before.
• Day – Mixed Climbs & Dry Tooling – When the ice runs out, or starts a ways up there…
• Day – Glacier Travel & Crevasse Rescue – Planning a trip to a glaciated area? Brush up on your glacier travel skills.

February 22nd

• Day – Backcountry Day in the Ravines – climb one or more of the multi-pitch ravines in the Catskills.

For more details visit the Alpine Endeavors Catskill Ice Festival webpage. You can sign up online or call Rock  & Snow to register. Space is limited so sign up soon!

DEC Ranger Ice Training

Joe Vitti leading a beautiful grade 4 pitch

Once or twice during the winter many of the local guide services get together with the DEC Catskill Forest Preserve rangers to ice climb. This gathering is meant to acquaint many of the rangers with the activity and to help the guides and rangers feel comfortable calling upon each other during a rescue situation.

The gathering is usually held during the midwinter in an area that has easy access. The past few years it has been held at Santa Cruz Falls in Twilight Park. The area is off limits to climbers, but the owners were gracious enough to allow the training to be held there. It’s a beautiful spot, it’s treat to climb there, and it’s good to get to know the rangers better. They’re committed to they’re jobs, and if there’s a rescue scenario they’ll be there to help out.

Setting up ropes

Rob Mecus, on the left, equipping some of the other rangers

Rob Mecus leading one of the nicest lines there

Rob and Ben (both rangers) climbing. These guys both climb around the Hudson Valley a lot!

North Country Climbing, December 26-30 2009

Alpine Endeavors has been getting out up north recently. Despite the rain on December 27 conditions are good and there’s plenty of ice to climb. I just wrapped up three days of climbing on Mt. Washington and a day over at Smuggler’s Notch in Vermont. Both areas have a very alpine feel to them, and are adventure climbing areas.

Descending from Left of Left in Tuckerman's Ravine

High up in Central Gully, Huntington Ravine

Our three day itinerary on Mt. Washington included two nights at the Harvard Cabin and three days of climbing in the ravines. Day one was spent at the ice bulge called “Left of Left” which is left of Left Gully in Tuckermans. It’s a good place to do some introductory ice climbing, practice ice axe self-arrest and learn how to walk with crampons and ice axes. On day two we hiked to the summit (6288′). Day three was spent in Huntington Ravine climbing Central Gully. Central Gully is a classic easy ice climb/ mountaineering outing that seems like it should belong somewhere on a bigger mountain.

Mixed climbing on p.2 of Ragnarock

Topping out on Ragnarock

Smuggler’s Notch is a fantastic place to ice climb and it has one of the longest winter seasons of any northeastern climbing area. We climbed Ragnarock, probably the classic ice route in Smuggler’s Notch. The climbing is always challenging but never extreme. A pitch of grade 4- ice leads to a traditionally protected mixed pitch (M4, feels like 5.8). The final pitch traverses across the face and then up steeper ice to the top. This route is comparable in quality to any of the New England classic climbs in terms of length, exposure and difficulty.

I’ve posted a few of the images from the past few days. The lighting was pretty flat so the images aren’t great but they’re fun nonetheless. See you out there.